How to cut wine and beer bottles, video

This video shows how you can easily cut bottles with the Creator's Premium Bottle Cutter to make a variety of items. We really like this video because it also shows how to use hot and cold water to easily separate the cut sections from the bottles after scored with the glass cutter! 
 

Click here to watch the video!

Click here 

to buy the Creator's Premium Bottle Cutter from Harrach Glass 

at a very affordable price!

Cut glass bottles with a bandsaw- video

Cut glass bottles with a Gryphon C-40 Bandsaw,  video made by Delphi Glass.  It shows just another easy way for you to cut glass bottles!  Click on this link here to view the video!

Bottle cutting video

Creator's Premium Bottle Cutter has a video out showing how to cut glass bottles with their cutter!  We hope our readers enjoy this video, this cutter makes cutting bottles look so easy!

Click here to view the video.

Kiln schedule for fire polishing hand-cut wine bottle drinking glasses

Ramp temp                      to                          hold

240/hr                             500 degrees          10 minutes

240/hr                             1275 degrees         5 minutes

9999/hr                           1030 degrees        30 minutes

150/hr                             850 degrees           no hold

300/hr                             650                        off

How to make a fused glass wine bottle house sign, tutorial

This excellent tutorial came from the Glass with a Past web page, by Jodi McRaney Rusho.  She has such a wonderful web page full of great fused glass tutorials and information plus she has an online store.  

Here’s a fused bottle glass project that you may not have considered.  These house numbers are made with fused recycled bottles and Armstrong’s Float Fire frit.  This is a relatively easy project, grab a cup of coffee and follow along.

My friend Mary Young and her husband Todd belong to a wine club and asked me it I could make some very visible house numbers for them out of recycled wine bottles.  The final project turned out so well, I thought I’d share.

Step 1 – Select the bottles

I only need 4 flat bottles for the final project, but I chose a varied selection of sizes and colors so I would have lots to choose from.

Step 2 – Fuse the bottles flat

Using my standard recycled glass fusing schedule, I flattened six different bottles.

Step 3 – Choose the best bottles

After the bottles are fused, I selected my favorite 4, making sure I varied the color, as well as the neck and shoulder shape.

Step 4 – Make your number stencils

Since it seemed unlikely that I would be able to find stencils in the exact size I needed I decided to make my own.  This was a one of a kind project, so I’m not really concerned with the durability of the stencils.  I found a nice rounded font and enlarged it until each number was about 6″ tall, one number per page.

Cut the number out carefully with a razor knife.

Step 5 – Applying the embossing ink

This step is done using a scrapbook product called embossing ink.  It’s a sticky pink goo that is designed to grab embossing powder until you can heat set it.  I’m using it to adhere frit, it works great and it an excellent trick to keep on hand.  Since I’m covering a large area, I load up the stamp pad with ink and use the pad itself as the stamp.

For numbers with floating centers (6 and 0 for example), use a tiny piece of rolled painters tape to hold the center in place while you apply the ink.

Step 6 – Add the Float Fire

Float Fire is a variable COE product that can be used with window glass and bottle glass.  It is a little expensive, but it goes a long way, and if you are using it on glass that you’ve collected for free, it can be a great investment.

Step 7 – Repeat for all the other numbers.

After all of your numbers are finished, re-fire the bottles using a slumping schedule.  Using a lower temperature will help keep the surface of the bottles glossy and the numbers slightly raised for great visibility.

Step 8 – Mount the bottles on the backing

For this project I used a piece of 1″ x 4″ pine painted black.  I used outdoor clear silicone to glue the bottles to the board.  The owner lives in a very windy area, so we made sure that enough of the board showed between the bottles that it could be securely anchored to the wall (visible in the first picture).  For less windy areas, I would attach two D ring hangers at the top of the board behind the first and last bottle.

Step 9 – Stick it on a house – preferably one that has the same house number

Pretty groovy!  This project could also be done with beer bottles for a smaller finished sign.

Bending the neck of a glass bottle tutorial

By Joshua Smyth, eHow Contributor

Glass bottles, once they've been emptied, don't need to become garbage. Instead, they can be turned into art -- plates, ornaments, and decorations -- through the process of "slumping," in which the glass is placed in a kiln and heated until it becomes soft.

With the right tools, you can even stretch the glass before it cools down. Heating the glass carefully will ensure that it keeps its color and texture while allowing you to reshape the bottle.

Examples of stretched bottles.

Sample picture of bent Corona Extra beer bottle.

Instructions

1 Clean your bottle thoroughly with soap and water, then let it dry before putting it in the kiln. Water will disrupt the process. While it is wet, scrub off any paper or plastic labels.

2 Buy devitrification fluid from a craft store and spray it on your bottle if the bottle is made of colored glass. This will keep the color consistent while you melt, reshape, and cool the glass.

3 Set a kiln shelf on the bottom of the kiln and cover it with kiln paper. You could also spray it with kiln spray. Either will prevent the glass from sticking to it as the bottle stretches down.

4 Hang the bottle by its neck from the top of the kiln. The easiest way to do this is to use a pair of pliers to cut pieces of coat hanger wire and loop them around the neck of the bottle, just below the wider part at the top of the neck. Do this several times, until you have 5 or 6 pieces of coat hanger wire wrapped around the bottle neck. Bend the wires downward so that their free ends extend several inches past the end of the bottle. You can then stand the whole thing inside the kiln. The bottle will hang from the wire loops and stretch downwards under its own weight as it heats up.

5 Set the kiln to warm at 500 degrees per hour. This is the safest speed to heat glass without risking thermal shock. (Reference 1) When the kiln gets up to 1100 degrees, stop the temperature increase for 10 minutes, then continue heating the bottle at a slower rate of 250 degrees per hour. (Reference 1) The glass will start to stretch downwards as the kiln heats.

6 Increase the heat as fast as you want once the kiln gets to 1300 degrees. Stop heating when the bottle has stretched to your satisfaction or it reaches 1425 degrees. (Reference 1)

7 Crack the lid of the kiln very briefly, until the kiln cools to 1100 degrees. This will keep the bottle from turning cloudy. Once this is done, just turn off the kiln and let it cool naturally back to room temperature. This is called "annealing" the glass, and is the final step. Once it has cooled, just open the kiln, pull out your stretched bottle, and use your pliers to remove the wire frame that was holding it up.

Yes, you can make lampwork beads from glass bottles!

The other day I found this thread on the site, Lampwork Etc., discussing how glass artists are making lampwork beads with recycled bottle glass, click here to view the thread.  It is full of interesting information, pictures and other links.  You might have to become a member of the forum to read the thread, but it is highly recommended since Lampwork Etc. is excellent for all glass artists.

I see that some people use chunks of broken bottles to create their beads by using them as glass rod.  You need to hold the piece of glass with something like a punty or other tool.  I also think that people with access to a tile saw can slice bottles lengthwise and then into thin strips and use those strips just like glass rod.

There is still a compatibility issue when using recycled glass bottles, sometimes bottles used by one company may still have different COE's.  For that reason it is best not to mix the glass with other glass, although if used sparingly, it is possible to add dots and decorations to the beads without them breaking.  A small amount of frit and powders can also be used to color the bottle glass beads as well, but keep in mind the fact that you will be mixing COE's and the beads may break.  It would be easier to make single color beads when using recycled glass from one bottle when lampworking (or fusing), but it is always fun to experiment.  You might discover that you can do some mixing without any breakage.

How to cut a bottle with a tile saw, video

Click here to see this little video showing how to cut bottles with a wet tile saw!  Wear protective eye wear, gloves and be careful.  Always have water in the saw so that the glass dust does not become air born and inhaled.  And have fun creating!

Firing a bottle with an enamel label, tutorial

Once you start putting glass bottles in your kiln you will quickly learn these techniques.  When you are just starting out you will want to look online for this information but you probably won't find it written in many articles.  So today we thought we'd share some of our own Harrach Glass,  glass bottle firing techniques with our readers.

Basically what you will need to remember is that the part of the bottle that is laying on your kiln shelf will look dull after being fired.  So if you want an enameled label to look shiny, make sure it is facing upwards on your kiln shelf or in a mold.

Next, if the bottle not only has an enameled label on the top side, but also has writing on the bottom side that you want to preserve (even though it will look dull), you need to lay the bottle on shelf paper instead of laying it on a primed shelf or mold.  Usually the enamel writing or image will stick to shelf primer but it doesn't stick to shelf paper.  It is also advised to use shelf paper that doesn't have a texture since that will show after fusing.  Just lay shelf paper on the mold you intend to use and the enamel will not stick.

Always use devitrification spray on your bottles.  We just wipe it on to the entire bottle, by hand!  Click here to see the our link to homemade Devit Spray, that works every time!  You don't need to let the spray dry before turning on your kiln either.

Our bottle slumping notes

Bottle slumping (and melting them flat) is one of the most inexpensive and fun kiln projects available for glass artists!  Typically an artist will have to buy glass from either a retail store or wholesaler to make their hot glass project.  With bottles and jars, an artist only needs to find a source for the free glass.  They can find an excellent source through friends and even themselves.   Once a free glass source is secured, the only costs involved come from the expense of shelf paper, molds, kiln wash, and devitrification spray.

We have decided that there are two types of wine bottles (and glass jars).  One type has a flat bottom while the other has a conical bottom.  When slumping a plain, non painted bottle or jar, it really doesn't matter how the bottom looks when finished.  When slumping a painted bottle or jar with a flat bottom, more care must be taken so as not to allow the bottom to completely fold over the painted area, thus obscuring part of the image.  To do this, a bottle or jar should be only partially slumped, so it must be watched, sometimes minute by minute,  at the very end of the kiln firing process to make sure that the slump is stopped before the bottom of the bottle folds over completely.  Another way to completely melt a bottle or jar with a flat bottom is to lay the bottle with the front side laying on the kiln shelf (with shelf paper underneath).  Once melted flat, the bottom of the bottle will be melted flat onto the back of the bottle.  Unfortunately the front side of the bottle will not not have a glossy finish if done this way.  So if a glossy finish is wanted on the front of the bottle, it will have to be re-fired with the front side of the bottle facing up, this time.  We have found that when firing a bottle or jar for a second time in our kilns, we must slow down our firing schedule or the bottle will break.  The schedule not only needs to be slowed down during the heating process, but also during the cooling process as well.

Bottles with a conical bottom are quite easy to melt since when completely melted, the cone shape easily flattens out inside of the bottle so it is not visible on the outside of the bottle.  These bottles work great in wine bottle molds and melted flat on a kiln shelf.

We advise glass artists to always use shelf paper.  We like Bullseye thin fire shelf paper, it doesn't have a texture that can mar a glass surface.  It is easy for a bottle to end up with permanent kiln wash marks or stains when a bottle is laid on a kiln shelf or in a mold without any shelf paper as a buffer.

It is also important to use some sort of devit spray on bottles and jars.  Although some artists seem to like the look of devitrification,  most don't.  We like to use the borax soap mixture on our bottles and jars.  It really works and it's easy to make, click on this link to go to our Borax devitrification spray information page!

Blue and clear bottles and jars seem to get devitrification easier than green and brown bottles.  For that reason, if you don't want devitrification, you have to speed up the time on your kiln schedule from 1300 degrees to the hottest temperature desired.  The less amount of time spent in the that temperature range, the less chance of getting devitrification on your glass.

Making Wine Bottle Cheese Plates in Your Kiln.

Slumping is HOT!

After enjoying a little fruit of the vine....The first thing you'll want to do is remove the label from your bottle; for stubborn ones Goo-Gone works well.

Next be sure to wash and dry your bottle completely. Moisture is the enemy. It can cause the bottle to explode in your kiln, making a very big mess.

Bottles with painted labels are ok (actually - they are trey cool ;) but I suggest using a thin sheet of fiber paper under the part where the label comes in contact with the molds surface, otherwise the bottle might get stuck and ruin your mold. YUCK! see the picture below.

Devitrification spray can be applied to the bottles to prevent a hazy or a scummy appearance on the glass after it's fired. (I don't bother with this).

If you would like to hang your bottle for decorative purposes; take a piece of 20 gage copper wire (or fine silver) shape in a U and insert it in the bottle top before slumping.

Use a clay mold that has been pre treated with glass separator. Separator should be reapplied between firings and dried completely, as needed. Check the tiny vent holes, in the mold - under the glass, to be sure that they are not plugged with the separator.

My Firing Schedule for med. to lg. bottle:

•1. 600 Degrees Per Hour to 1000 Degrees Fahrenheit, soak (hold temp constant) for 10 minutes

•2. It is only safe to peek* into the kiln from 1000 degrees and up- otherwise you will shock your glass and it will crack.

*Please protect your hands and arms with heavy kiln gloves and your face and eyes with tinted safety glasses!

•3. Heat AFAP (as fast as possible), to 1375 to 1425 DF, (depending on the size and thickness of your bottle)

•4. Soak (hold temp constant) for 5-15 minutes or until the bottle is slumped to perfection.

•5. Watch it closely during this time it can move rather fast!

•6. Allow the Kiln to cool until the temperature falls to 1000 DF.

•7. Soak for 10 minutes at 1000 DF.

•8. Annealing Stage; slow cool at 180 DPH to 800 DF.

•9. Next turn off the kiln and let it cool naturally to room temperature; don't peek*! (see #2 above)

After you remove your project from the kiln; be sure to vacuum any spall that comes off the copper wire to avoid contaminating your next project.

You may want to adjust the temperature and/or soak time according to the size and thickness of your bottle.

Practice is the best teacher and sometimes an error is the result of what will be some of your favorite pieces.

Most importantly, have Fun!

Bottles from my Kiln

Snowman Cheese Ball

Belvedere Bottle

Bottle stuck to the mold...YUCK!

Hot Glass in the Kiln

This interesting tutorial was written by:

shetrick on HubPages

While Sue Hetrick received most of her formal training in art from HACC, Central Pa’s Community College; she continues to learn from her own experimentation. Her ceramic pieces are crafted to be functional works of whimsy. The same can be said for her glass fused and slumped pieces, which tend to be her favored creations. The addition of wire wrapping make the glass pieces uniquely her own. Whether ceramic or glass, Sue crafts works of art that incorporate fun into function.

Recycled wine bottle art video by biolumglass on Youtube

I came across this inspirational video showing samples of fused glass bottle art on Youtube by biolumglass, Bryan Northup.  
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SSONhk7JTHE&feature=fvwrel

Glass bottle walls, houses and more!

Wow, how cool is this!  Talk about recycling.  

Below are sample pics from the Vitreosity webpage.

http://www.krepcio.com/vitreosity/archives/cat_bottle_walls.html

Below is a pic from:
http://www.dreamstime.com/green-glass-bottle-wall-thumb9981385.jpg

Below is a pic from
http://inspirationgreen.com/glassbottlewalls.html

Below pic from:
http://www.roadsideattractions.ca/treherne.htm

Wine bottle pendant lights

Here is another fun way to re purpose wine bottles by Meyda Lighting http://www.dexigner.com/news/9831

 

Excellent video by CHRISTIANES GLASKUNST, hot glass art

This is such a fun video to watch!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lS2lhRIAQ

* When drilling into glass, we advise glass artists to either drill in water, or hold a wet sponge on the drill bit, for safety reasons.  This way glass dust cannot become air born and inhaled.

Kiln slumping wine bottles and other glass bottles for glass art

I found a lot of info online about kiln slumping bottles, so to try something different today, I posted two excellent articles that I found.  Have you ever wondered about labels? Do you want to learn how to remove labels from your bottles or do you want to know how to keep labels on bottles when firing?  Well, I have also found some info on those subjects and posted it below.

Tutorial 1.

Warmglass.com http://www.warmglass.com/Bottles.htm  says:

Slumping bottles in a kiln is not difficult.  It does, however, require a knowledge of basic kiln-forming principles and an understanding of both thermal shock, annealing, and devitrification.  If you are not familiar with these terms, then spending a few moments with the Warm Glass tutorial will help familiarize you with the process of heating glass in a kiln.

The basic process for slumping a bottle in a kiln is as follows:1.  Clean the bottle thoroughly and allow it to dry.  Some people also apply a devit spray to the bottle to help prevent devitrification.  This is recommended for most blue and amber bottles and is also helpful for other colors as well.
2.  Cover your kiln shelf with either fiber paper or kiln wash.
3.  Lay the bottle in the kiln on it side.  It's not essential, but some people place a piece of wire in the neck to form a wire loop which can be used to hang the bottle after slumping. (20 gauge twisted copper works well.)
4.   Fire the kiln to 1100F and soak for 10 minutes.  The rate of temperature increase should be from around 500 degrees per hour.  Some people fire as fast as 800 degrees per hour, but be aware that the faster you fire the more likely the bottle is to crack from thermal shock.  The purpose of the 10 minute soak is to allow the temperature of the glass to equalize and to all reach 1100F.
5.  Fire the kiln at 250 degrees per hour to 1300F, then fire as fast as your kiln will go to 1475F.  Hold the temperature constant at 1475F until the bottle has slumped to the degree you want.  Usually this takes around 10 minutes.
6.  Cool the kiln to 1100F as fast as possible.  You may need to flash vent the kiln to speed cooling and to help prevent devitrification, but some people slump bottles with flash venting.
7.  Anneal.  Some people accomplish this by simply letting the closed kiln cool naturally.  This approach will work if your kiln cools slowly enough through the annealing range (for bottles, roughly 1050F to 850F).  You would want to cool at a rate of 150 degrees per hour or slower.  If your kiln has a controller, a proper anneal soak is highly recommended:  soak at 1030F for 20-30 min then 100 dph to around 850.
8.  Cool to room temperature.  Most kilns will cool at a slow enough rate to avoid thermal shocking the bottles by cooling too fast.

Tutorial 2.
http://www.bigceramicstore.com/information/Tip92.htm says:


Bottle slumping is becoming quite popular, probably because you don't have to buy special glass, you just re-use wine and beer bottles.  (Make sure you recruit your friends to help you drink all that alcohol!  We know how it feels to look at a really cool Grey Goose vodka bottle and think "How long will it take me to empty that?"  Given how addicting this is, we wouldn't want to be responsible for any irresponsible drinking!)

Basic requirements:
You will need a kiln that is able to fire to approximately 1500 degrees For higher.  Any ceramic kiln or glass kiln can be used for this, as long as the bottles fit.  Unfortunately the long shape of bottles make them hard to fit in many kilns.  So we designed the Trio Kiln specifically to fit all our bottle slumping molds.

You need some type of separator between glass and what it sits on.  (The shelf or mold,)  Options are glass separator, Mold-EZ or Primo Primer, which are brushed on, or thin-fire or fiber paper.

You will need glass bottles, such as wine bottles, beer bottles, soda bottles, etc.  Wine bottles make nice trays and dishes, beer and soda bottles make great spoon rests.

Molds are an option that can be used to shape slumped bottles into dishes and spoon rests, or you can simply slump bottles flat, directly on the shelf to make trays.


With all slumping, there are general principles that need to be followed:

Bottles must be clean and dry.  All label residue must be removed.  Some people will use isopropyl alcohol to clean any fingerprints from the glass as well.  The best label removal process I have used to date is filling the bottles with very hot water, and placing them in a bucket filled with very hot water and powdered oxy-clean.  Let that soak a couple hours to over-night. Most labels drop off or can be scraped off with a plastic scraper.  I often use those handy fake credit-cards that come in the mail.  Ah, yet more recycling!


Bottles need to be placed on a surface that has been kiln washed or shelf paper such as thin-fire paper can be used.  This is to prevent the glass from fusing to the shelf.  When using kiln wash, be sure the surface is very smooth.  Any brush strokes, bumps, etc. will show up in the glass.  Even seams between sheets of thin-fire paper will show.
If slumping bottles with "painted" labels such as Corona bottles or Belvedere bottles, those labels remain on the bottle even after slumping.  The trick is to have the bottle remain in place during the firing.  Otherwise, the label looks off-center.  I have used small pieces of thin-fire paper to prop a bottle that wants to roll.  Granted these can be seen on the back of the glass, but in my mind that is better than tossing a bottle because the label looks funny.
If using a mold, it should be covered with a thick coat of kiln wash or glass separator.  We offer a variety of mold shapes for slumping bottles. You can also make your own shapes using your own bisque.   I often use smaller triangle shelf posts wrapped in thin-fire paper to create an elevated neck on beer bottles for spoon rests.  They are small enough to allow the top of the bottle to touch the shelf after slumping. Sometimes glass will get de-vitrify, or get cloudy.  This seems very dependent on the glass the specific bottle was made from.  But we have found that cleaning the bottle really well helps avoid it.  We also have Super Spray, a de-vitrification spray which can be used.

One other thing to consider before firing is whether you plan to hang the tray or spoon rest.  I have found high temp. wire works well and does not break down.  Copper and brass wires will break down a bit, sometimes leaving unattractive flecks in the neck of the bottle.  Simply cut a piece of wire, shape, and place in the opening of the bottle. As the neck slumps, it will permanently fuse the wire into place.  If I want the wire to be gold, I just paint it later.

Decorating your slumped bottles can be a lot of fun too.  You are the artist!  Anything is possible.  You can paint on them with Hues2Fuse non-toxic glass paints prior to firing.  You can fire the bottles on texture molds.  Some people incorporate other pieces of glass, such as marbles, although this can be tricky.  And many people use wire (such as copper) to decorate them after firing.
FIRING PROFILES
As you research slumping bottles, you will learn there are many different firing profiles out there.  Some profiles are provided specifically from the kiln manufacturers, others are a blend of several firing profiles from other artists.  My own profile is a combination of both.  I use a 7cu. electronic controlled kiln and primarily flatten bottles for cheese trays and spoon rests.  The slumping profile that came from the manufacturer did not seem to adequately slump all of the bottles.  Whether the uneven slumping was due the location in the kiln, the type of glass, the size of bottle, the variety of bottles in a single load, or the number of shelves I loaded, I cannot be certain.  Aside from still trying to eradicate a few small bubbles trapped in the body of the bottle, I have had pretty good success.  Generally the firing takes approximately 9 hrs.

Segment	Rate	degrees F	Hold
1	500	500	12 min
2	500	750	12 min
3	600	1100	10 min
4	200	1300	20 min
5	250	1475	10 min	takes roughly 4.5 hrs to this point
6	9999	1100	1 hr
7	500	970	30 min	annealing occurs between 800-1000 deg.
8	120	750	20
Let kiln cool naturally.

To give you an idea about different firing profiles, we have also been using this profile for wine bottles, with success, in the Trio Kiln.

Segment	Rate	degrees F	Hold
1	500	1100	10 min
2	250	1300	0 min
3	300	1425	10 min	at first we had this at 1475 but the edges of the bottle were sharp
Let kiln cool naturally.

This profile does not even have an annealing phase, but we have found it seems to work fine.  If you choose to use this profile, you may consider adding an annealing phase at the end.

Keep in mind these are guidelines, as every kiln will fire a little differently.  It will take a few firings in your own kiln to obtain the results you desire.  Be sure to keep a log so that once you have a successful load, you can duplicate it.  And most importantly have fun with it.

Wishing you the best of luck! - Kris
copyright 2010 BigCeramicStore.com

Check out BigCeramicStore.com to purchase a variety of bottle molds and supplies!


Tutorial 3.

SAVE THAT LABEL!

by http://www.beekmanwine.com/prevtopr.htm

We all know how frustrating it can be trying to remove some labels from wine bottles. Removing labels used to be quite simple, but new glues have been developed to prevent labels from coming off in restaurant wine buckets. These glues make it difficult to remove the labels at all, but one of the following methods will almost always work.


Several different glues are used today and you can’t tell which one was used by looking at the label. No single technique works every time on every label, but there are some relatively safe bets. First try to peel the label off starting in a corner. If you are lucky and the winery used the new “peel and stick” type of label, the label will come right off (However, it will immediately stick to anything it comes in contact with!). Most times you will not be so lucky.


The Blow-drier Method - Some of the new glues are unaffected by water, but will melt enough to slide the label off the bottle after “toasting” the label with a blow-drier for about 5 minutes. A heat gun will work faster.


The Tape Method - This method separates the layer of the label with the image on it from the layer with the glue. 

We sell a product called Labeloff Label Saver ($8.95) which works 98% of the time. It's a package of clear plastic sheets with an aggresive glue on one side. You must follow the instructions carefully.
Or you can contact the manufacturer directly:
Pentad Group, Inc.
106 Pentad Plaza
1446 N.W. 2nd Ave.
Boca Raton, FL  33432
(561) 362-8678
e-mail: labelsaver@aol.com

You can also do it yourself. Go to any office supply store and buy a roll of clear 3” wide strapping (packing) tape.
1. Cut off two strips of tape that are about 4” wider than the label.
2. Fill the bottle with VERY hot water (trying not to get the label wet). Wipe the bottle dry.
3. Put a strip of paper about 1/2” wide across the sticky side of both ends of the tape so the ends won’t stick to the bottle.
4. Working from one side of the bottle to the other, attach the tape to the bottle so that it just extends (about 1/4”) above the label. Bring the tape across the label, using some type of straight edge to smooth it out as you go.
5. Once you have the first strip in place, if it doesn’t fully cover the label, attach the second strip right under the first.
6. Use the back of a spoon to rub hard all over the label.
7. Starting at one edge, slowly start to peel off the tape.
8. Once the label is removed, trim the edges with a scissors.

The Soaking Method - this is becoming less effective as fewer water-soluble glues are being used.
Equipment: 1 tall Igloo water jug (the picnic kind), tall enough to hold a bottle, Ivory Detergent, paper towels, wax paper, a single edged razor blade, a heavy book, a cork, and a glass of wine.
1. Fill the jug with warm water and 2-3 drops of Ivory Detergent.
2. Fill the wine bottle itself with VERY hot water and immerse it in the jug.
3. After about 30 minutes, the label should either be floating in the jug or loosely clinging to the bottle. If not, continue the soak for 2 hours or overnight.
4. If the label still isn’t off, take the bottle out of the jug and fill it again with very warm water. Cram an old cork into the top and dry the bottle well. Get the label as dry as possible.
5. Lay the bottle on a towel to steady it. Use the single edged razor blade to scrape the label off. Start working from the left side of the label, following the curve of the bottle, to about the middle of the label. Then start from the right side of the label and cut back to the center. Work back and forth until the label is off.
6. Put the label between towels to blot of as much moisture as possible. Be careful! Some of the new glues are of the “peel and stick” variety and will stick to anything. If you find one of these, press the label down on some plain white paper and trim around the label.
7. Place the label on a piece of waxed paper with paper towels on top of it and weight it down with a heavy book until the label dries.
8. The glass of wine? You know what that’s for!


Joel’s Method - Forget the darned label and buy another bottle! 

Tutorial 4.

You can fire some labels, by Harrach glass

If you have a bottle that has a baked on enamel paint for the label the enamel will stay on the bottle as seen in the photo. Some enamels will change color or fade. If the bottle has etching the etching will soften. Some bottles get a soft haze that can not be helped.