Types of torch flames for lampworking

Hint:  The ratio at which you set your oxygen to propane is crucial for certain color effects. When dialing in flame settings you start with just propane.

A neutral flame is the hottest flame. Your flame is made up of "candles" at the base of the torch, and you want each candle to be about the same length; 1/4" to 1/3" or so, primarily rounded blue with a small slightly fuzzy whitish-yellow tip. You don't want to see any elongated yellow candles, or a strongly elongated center candle, because that means you have a reduction flame. It's OK for the center candle to be just slightly longer than the outer candles.

A reducing flame has more propane than the usual neutral flame, it's a cooler flame. A reducing flame has longer yellow fuzzy tips to the candles. The flame will look fatter than usual and the candles coming out of the torch will look very long. When you put a rod of ivory or white, (turquoise, yellow and other colors do this as well), you will get a brownish haze on the end of the heated rod. To remove an unwanted brownish stain on a bead or rod, if you DO NOT really want to use a reducing flame but are accidentally using one, turn down the propane on your torch then re introduce the bead or rod into the flame and the brown stain will burn off. If you can't turn down the propane on your torch, turn up the oxygen on your torch. A reduction flame also helps bring metallics to the surface.

An oxidizing flame has more oxygen than usual. An oxidizing flame has rounded end blue candles with no yellow/white tips to them. The further away from the torch head you work, the more oxidizing the flame. Oxidizing flames are good to use on striking colors. Metallic leaf also likes a slightly oxidizing flame.

Reducing flame on torch at Harrach Glass

How to make raku glass "pop" tutorial

This little hint is written for lampwork artists that are unable to get some nice colors with raku glass.  First of all, I use soda lime glass (soft glass) that is 104 coe.  I use both raku frit and raku glass rod.  I seem to get the best effect with frit.

So basically what you will need to do is form the bead to whatever shape you desire, first.  Then when the bead is still hot, add the raku frit or decorate with your glass rod.  Once done melt it all in to the base color, and let the bead cool down.  

Once the bead has cooled down, reheat the bead, this time using a lot of heat in a reducing flame.  A reducing flame means, a flame with more propane than usual.  Once heated up and molten, quickly cool the bead.  I cool my beads by placing them on the back of a cold, brass lampwork press.  I just lightly rub the bead around so that the raku cools down quickly.  Now take a look at your bead.  If the raku glass looks like it needs more color in a certain area, heat that spot up again and cool it quickly again with the brass press.  You can't heat and cool the bead too much because after awhile the raku color will fade away and look dark.  So you must try to get it right the first couple of times!

Practice, practice, practice and eventually it will become easy.  Good luck and have fun playing around.