Tools needed to melt wine bottle and other glass

Occasionally someone will ask me how I melt my wine bottles and other art glass projects.  As crazy as this sounds, I have seen, from looking around online, that some people are actually trying to melt bottles in things like barbecue grills and fireplaces.  And of course that won't really work!  It may be possible to somewhat melt the glass but it will probably permanently stick to where ever it was melted and ruin things.  And that process is never precise.  So I found this information on WarmGlass.com with great information on how to really get started properly!  I hope this helps. 

Aside from the glass, the most important item you need is a kiln. Most kilns used are electric and are capable of reaching temperatures of around 1800 degrees Fahrenheit. Kilns are available in sizes ranging from less than a cubic foot to big enough to fill a room. Kilns made specifically for ceramics can be used, but it's better to have one that's specifically engineered for firing glass.

Your kiln must have the capability to accurately monitor and display the inside temperature. This is usually done with a pyrometer, a precise thermometer that is often coupled with a controller, a device that helps manage the firing of the kiln. A controller can greatly simplify the task of precisely directing and monitoring the temperature changes inside the kiln. You can get by without a controller if you're willing to keep a closer eye on the kiln, but a pyrometer that can accurately measure the temperature inside the kiln is essential.

In addition to the kiln, you need a shelf to set the glass on and (if you want to slump) a mold to help shape the glass. Shelves are generally made of clay or a lightweight refractory material, while molds can be made of clay, stainless steel, or various kinds of cements and plaster mixtures. The key is that both the shelf and the mold can withstand heating up to a temperature of 1700 degrees Fahrenheit or so and then cooling back to room temperature.

You'll also need some sort of glass separator to keep the glass from sticking to the kiln shelf and the mold. The separator can be a special kind of paper that glass won't stick to at high temperatures (called fiber paper) or it can be an emulsion that you apply to the shelf, then allow to dry (commonly called a shelf primer or kiln wash). Without this separator, glass will stick to the shelf or mold when it gets hot and your piece of artwork will be ruined.  

  

That's it. If you have some glass, a kiln, a shelf or mold, and something to keep the glass from sticking, you have the basic ingredients to begin fusing and slumping. Add some tools to help cut and the glass and a few essential pieces of safety equipment, and you're ready to begin.

Primo Primer video

We just happened to see this video today for Primo Primer.  If anyone is having trouble with either their glass sticking to their molds or if they are losing mold detail because of thick shelf primer, they should check this video out!  We use the pink colored Primo Primer so this new purple color is different!

View Primo Primer video here.

Fusing glass bottle pieces to make glass art

Many glass artists have gotten into creating recycled glass art in a big way lately by using glass bottles.  One fun project is melting and fusing together pieces of bottles.  Below we have pictures of a project we are in the process of working on.  As we complete the piece we'll add more pictures as well.

For our newest project we used two recycled brown glass bottles.  We placed them in a couple of plastic grocery bags and crushed them with a hammer.  Once crushed we removed some of the larger pieces like the bottle bottoms and necks and then placed the remaining glass onto our kiln shelf.  Our shelf has primer on it as well as a piece of shelf paper.  We always have primer on our shelves even when we use shelf paper.  

We actually haven't decided what to make with our new "sheet" of glass.  The possibilities are endless!  As soon as we do decide what to do with this, we'll post more pictures and update this page.  Any ideas or suggestions are welcome!  We were thinking about slumping the sheet over a floral former to make a candle holder or lamp shade, OR slump it into a mold to make a decorative bowl.  

 Glass bottle pieces arranged on kiln shelf and shelf paper before firing.

Closer view of unfired glass pieces in kiln.

Glass bottle pieces after fusing process.

Closer view of fused bottle pieces in kiln.

Once fused together, we were able pick up the entire piece and it held together!

How to remove kiln wash from glass

Trying to remove baked on kiln wash from the underside of a glass piece can be one of the most frustrating experiences for the warm glass artist.  In the worst cases, it doesn't respond to elbow grease, it requires nasty chemicals, and it leaves an ugly stain behind. 

But there's no need to despair, there are several ways to remove the baked on primer.  Part one of this two-part tip deals with less aggressive, relatively simple and safe, methods of attacking the baked on kiln wash beast.

1.  Vinegar.  Soaking the glass in distilled white vinegar (a mild acid) for two to three hours will often help the kiln wash come off with a minimum of scrubbing.

2.  Acid Etch or a similar etching product -- although this will leave a matte finish (not unattractive, by the way), a simple soak for ten to fifteen minutes will usually remove the kiln wash completely.

3.  Old fashioned elbow grease -- either after soaking in water or vinegar, or just by itself.  A good scrub with wet/dry sandpaper, Fabricut (open weave sand paper), or a similar product can work well. 

This information was found on Warm Tips.  Check out this web page for a lot of excellent warm glass hints and tips!

Firing a bottle with an enamel label, tutorial

Once you start putting glass bottles in your kiln you will quickly learn these techniques.  When you are just starting out you will want to look online for this information but you probably won't find it written in many articles.  So today we thought we'd share some of our own Harrach Glass,  glass bottle firing techniques with our readers.

Basically what you will need to remember is that the part of the bottle that is laying on your kiln shelf will look dull after being fired.  So if you want an enameled label to look shiny, make sure it is facing upwards on your kiln shelf or in a mold.

Next, if the bottle not only has an enameled label on the top side, but also has writing on the bottom side that you want to preserve (even though it will look dull), you need to lay the bottle on shelf paper instead of laying it on a primed shelf or mold.  Usually the enamel writing or image will stick to shelf primer but it doesn't stick to shelf paper.  It is also advised to use shelf paper that doesn't have a texture since that will show after fusing.  Just lay shelf paper on the mold you intend to use and the enamel will not stick.

Always use devitrification spray on your bottles.  We just wipe it on to the entire bottle, by hand!  Click here to see the our link to homemade Devit Spray, that works every time!  You don't need to let the spray dry before turning on your kiln either.

Making Wine Bottle Cheese Plates in Your Kiln.

Slumping is HOT!

After enjoying a little fruit of the vine....The first thing you'll want to do is remove the label from your bottle; for stubborn ones Goo-Gone works well.

Next be sure to wash and dry your bottle completely. Moisture is the enemy. It can cause the bottle to explode in your kiln, making a very big mess.

Bottles with painted labels are ok (actually - they are trey cool ;) but I suggest using a thin sheet of fiber paper under the part where the label comes in contact with the molds surface, otherwise the bottle might get stuck and ruin your mold. YUCK! see the picture below.

Devitrification spray can be applied to the bottles to prevent a hazy or a scummy appearance on the glass after it's fired. (I don't bother with this).

If you would like to hang your bottle for decorative purposes; take a piece of 20 gage copper wire (or fine silver) shape in a U and insert it in the bottle top before slumping.

Use a clay mold that has been pre treated with glass separator. Separator should be reapplied between firings and dried completely, as needed. Check the tiny vent holes, in the mold - under the glass, to be sure that they are not plugged with the separator.

My Firing Schedule for med. to lg. bottle:

•1. 600 Degrees Per Hour to 1000 Degrees Fahrenheit, soak (hold temp constant) for 10 minutes

•2. It is only safe to peek* into the kiln from 1000 degrees and up- otherwise you will shock your glass and it will crack.

*Please protect your hands and arms with heavy kiln gloves and your face and eyes with tinted safety glasses!

•3. Heat AFAP (as fast as possible), to 1375 to 1425 DF, (depending on the size and thickness of your bottle)

•4. Soak (hold temp constant) for 5-15 minutes or until the bottle is slumped to perfection.

•5. Watch it closely during this time it can move rather fast!

•6. Allow the Kiln to cool until the temperature falls to 1000 DF.

•7. Soak for 10 minutes at 1000 DF.

•8. Annealing Stage; slow cool at 180 DPH to 800 DF.

•9. Next turn off the kiln and let it cool naturally to room temperature; don't peek*! (see #2 above)

After you remove your project from the kiln; be sure to vacuum any spall that comes off the copper wire to avoid contaminating your next project.

You may want to adjust the temperature and/or soak time according to the size and thickness of your bottle.

Practice is the best teacher and sometimes an error is the result of what will be some of your favorite pieces.

Most importantly, have Fun!

Bottles from my Kiln

Snowman Cheese Ball

Belvedere Bottle

Bottle stuck to the mold...YUCK!

Hot Glass in the Kiln

This interesting tutorial was written by:

shetrick on HubPages

While Sue Hetrick received most of her formal training in art from HACC, Central Pa’s Community College; she continues to learn from her own experimentation. Her ceramic pieces are crafted to be functional works of whimsy. The same can be said for her glass fused and slumped pieces, which tend to be her favored creations. The addition of wire wrapping make the glass pieces uniquely her own. Whether ceramic or glass, Sue crafts works of art that incorporate fun into function.