• Art Glass Resources, and some business information
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Sunday, January 27, 2013

Kiln fired frit painting, tutorial



We actually found this tutorial on the HGTV web page.  It just shows how popular glass fusing really is!  The completed piece is really pretty and looks fairly detailed.  They didn't give much of a fusing schedule but use a slumping schedule for the type of glass that you are using and it should work!  This also goes for window and bottle glass.  Remember that if you want to form a piece like this into something like a bowl or plate, do the frit fusing work first, then shape the glass.  It is easier to fuse frit when it is laying flat in a kiln.












Materials:

large sheets of glass
Magic Marker
powdered glass (frit)
sifter
gold leafing
glue
wooden backing
hooks for hanging
Steps:
1. Cut glass from larger piece to desired size.
2. Draw design on with marker. Reverse glass and trace over design. Turn glass over and wipe off first design.
3. With a tiny sifter and other tools, sprinkle the powdered glass (frit) into design areas like doing a paint-by-numbers painting.
4. Make a frame by cutting out red strips of glass from large sheet. Frame the edges of the large piece with the red strips.
5. Fuse in kiln at 1500 F degrees. This larger piece requires 24 hours for firing and cooling.
6. Glue gold leafing to back of glass and glue wooden backing. Place hooks on for hanging.

Wednesday, January 23, 2013

Video showing how to make a hollow bead using a Hot Head Torch

We ran across this YouTube video showing how to make a clear, soft glass hollow bead using a Hot Head torch, uploaded by Candyann22.  She makes it look extremely easy, but keep in mind, it's probably only after she's had a LOT of practice!  Click here to see the video.

Thursday, January 17, 2013

Creating fused glass art design elements with a craft punch, tutorial


This tutorial should give our glass fusing readers a bunch of other creative ideas so that's why we are sharing it with our readers today!  It can be found on the Bullseye web page along with a lot of other excellent information.  Follow the product links below to purchase the glass and supplies used in the project from Bullseye Glass.



Holiday Punch

quick_tip_holiday_punch_plate
Holiday punch plate, 8" x 13", slumped on Rectangular Slumper, Mold 8929.
The holidays are coming — break out the punch!
(The paper punch, that is.) Combine punched silver foil design elements with Tomato Red Opalescent for something truly festive.
Layup
Arrange silver foil (007217-FOIL) punches on Tomato Red (000024-0030-F). You can use GlasTac (008232-GLUE) to keep them in place. Cap with 3 mm Clear (001101-0030-F ) and invert the whole layup so that the clear sheet is against the shelf and the Tomato Red is the top layer – or arrange the foil on the Clear and cap with Tomato Red.
quick_tip_holiday_punch_samples
In addition to Tomato Red (left), try Red Opalescent (000124-0030-F) and Deep Red (000224-0030-F).
The pieces shown here were fired "design down," so the side facing the shelf in the fuse becomes the front of the piece. To achieve an effortless semi-matte finish, slump with the shelf-side up.
Hint: Sandwich silver foil between sheets of paper before punching out shapes (or cutting them with scissors). This creates a toothy structure that cuts cleanly and keeps the foil from tearing. Be sure to remove all traces of paper before firing.
Firing
We've had success firing this layup with an initial heat range of 200-400°F in the first segment of a full fuse.
Remember Reactivity
A dark reaction will develop around foil elements as a result of a silver-sulfur reaction with Red Opalescent. Reactions near the edge of the piece may "feather" because there's more airflow there. Some yellowing between Clear and silver may develop (this is called silver stain). Expect variation. It's part of the beauty of this combination.
Firing with silver foil between layers of glass usually contains the silver. To protect your kiln shelf from silver contamination, place the foil elements at least 3/4" from the outer edge of the project. If firing with silver on the perimeter, keep it within the footprint of the base without any overhang.

Friday, January 11, 2013

How to make a fused glass wine bottle house sign, tutorial


This excellent tutorial came from the Glass with a Past web page, by Jodi McRaney Rusho.  She has such a wonderful web page full of great fused glass tutorials and information plus she has an online store.  

Fused Recycled Bottle Glass House NumbersHere’s a fused bottle glass project that you may not have considered.  These house numbers are made with fused recycled bottles and Armstrong’s Float Fire frit.  This is a relatively easy project, grab a cup of coffee and follow along.
My friend Mary Young and her husband Todd belong to a wine club and asked me it I could make some very visible house numbers for them out of recycled wine bottles.  The final project turned out so well, I thought I’d share.
Step 1 – Select the bottles
Selection of different shaped bottles for fusingI only need 4 flat bottles for the final project, but I chose a varied selection of sizes and colors so I would have lots to choose from.
Step 2 – Fuse the bottles flat
Bottles before fusingBottles after fusing
Using my standard recycled glass fusing schedule, I flattened six different bottles.
Step 3 – Choose the best bottles
Fused Recycled Bottles for ProjectAfter the bottles are fused, I selected my favorite 4, making sure I varied the color, as well as the neck and shoulder shape.
Step 4 – Make your number stencils
Since it seemed unlikely that I would be able to find stencils in the exact size I needed I decided to make my own.  This was a one of a kind project, so I’m not really concerned with the durability of the stencils.  I found a nice rounded font and enlarged it until each number was about 6″ tall, one number per page.
Numbers for Stencils
Cut the number out carefully with a razor knife.
House number stencilStep 5 – Applying the embossing ink
This step is done using a scrapbook product called embossing ink.  It’s a sticky pink goo that is designed to grab embossing powder until you can heat set it.  I’m using it to adhere frit, it works great and it an excellent trick to keep on hand.  Since I’m covering a large area, I load up the stamp pad with ink and use the pad itself as the stamp.
Embossing ink and padApplying Embossing Ink to StencilBottle with Number Inked in
For numbers with floating centers (6 and 0 for example), use a tiny piece of rolled painters tape to hold the center in place while you apply the ink.
Step 6 – Add the Float Fire

Adding Armstrong Float Fire to BottleBottle with Float Fire numberFloat Fire is a variable COE product that can be used with window glass and bottle glass.  It is a little expensive, but it goes a long way, and if you are using it on glass that you’ve collected for free, it can be a great investment.
Step 7 – Repeat for all the other numbers.
Recycled Bottle House NumbersAfter all of your numbers are finished, re-fire the bottles using a slumping schedule.  Using a lower temperature will help keep the surface of the bottles glossy and the numbers slightly raised for great visibility.
Step 8 – Mount the bottles on the backing
For this project I used a piece of 1″ x 4″ pine painted black.  I used outdoor clear silicone to glue the bottles to the board.  The owner lives in a very windy area, so we made sure that enough of the board showed between the bottles that it could be securely anchored to the wall (visible in the first picture).  For less windy areas, I would attach two D ring hangers at the top of the board behind the first and last bottle.
Finished Recycled Bottle Glass House Numbers
Step 9 – Stick it on a house – preferably one that has the same house number
Pretty groovy!  This project could also be done with beer bottles for a smaller finished sign.

Wednesday, January 9, 2013

How to make a lampwork kid bead pendant, photo tutorial


This really fun tutorial was made by loribeads and posted on lampworketc.com.  Click here to check out her Etsy store.



Kidlet Tutorial


  
   


  
  

Tips for head: 
in Step 2 - Try cased or striped stringer for hair - it looks great!

Step 4 - Poke tilting upward in the corner of each mouth to create a cute, cheeky grin.

Step 6 - Poke downward with a tungsten pick and it will give the kidlet a nose, almost.

Step 7 - After adding black dots for eyes, slightly flatten with a tool

Tips for body:
Step 2 - alternately, you can squish it into a lentil shape or even a cube for more variety.

Step 4 - add one large dot for each hand and two smaller stacked dots for each foot

Step 5 - make sure everything is melted in sufficiently because there is nothing sadder than a kidlet with one foot missing. Trust me on this one. )

Congrats! You're done! You now have your very own kidlet! Wire them up on a headpin and you've got yourself a nifty little pendant!

Finished Kidlet:
 


Also Loribeads says: If you make them to sell, please be kind and let them know where you learned it! And don't forget to tip your waitress!

Thursday, January 3, 2013

Bending the neck of a glass bottle tutorial

By Joshua Smyth, eHow Contributor

Glass bottles, once they've been emptied, don't need to become garbage. Instead, they can be turned into art -- plates, ornaments, and decorations -- through the process of "slumping," in which the glass is placed in a kiln and heated until it becomes soft.

With the right tools, you can even stretch the glass before it cools down. Heating the glass carefully will ensure that it keeps its color and texture while allowing you to reshape the bottle.

Examples of stretched bottles.

Sample picture of bent Corona Extra beer bottle.


Instructions

1 Clean your bottle thoroughly with soap and water, then let it dry before putting it in the kiln. Water will disrupt the process. While it is wet, scrub off any paper or plastic labels.

2 Buy devitrification fluid from a craft store and spray it on your bottle if the bottle is made of colored glass. This will keep the color consistent while you melt, reshape, and cool the glass.

3 Set a kiln shelf on the bottom of the kiln and cover it with kiln paper. You could also spray it with kiln spray. Either will prevent the glass from sticking to it as the bottle stretches down.
4 Hang the bottle by its neck from the top of the kiln. The easiest way to do this is to use a pair of pliers to cut pieces of coat hanger wire and loop them around the neck of the bottle, just below the wider part at the top of the neck. Do this several times, until you have 5 or 6 pieces of coat hanger wire wrapped around the bottle neck. Bend the wires downward so that their free ends extend several inches past the end of the bottle. You can then stand the whole thing inside the kiln. The bottle will hang from the wire loops and stretch downwards under its own weight as it heats up.
5 Set the kiln to warm at 500 degrees per hour. This is the safest speed to heat glass without risking thermal shock. (Reference 1) When the kiln gets up to 1100 degrees, stop the temperature increase for 10 minutes, then continue heating the bottle at a slower rate of 250 degrees per hour. (Reference 1) The glass will start to stretch downwards as the kiln heats.
6 Increase the heat as fast as you want once the kiln gets to 1300 degrees. Stop heating when the bottle has stretched to your satisfaction or it reaches 1425 degrees. (Reference 1)
7 Crack the lid of the kiln very briefly, until the kiln cools to 1100 degrees. This will keep the bottle from turning cloudy. Once this is done, just turn off the kiln and let it cool naturally back to room temperature. This is called "annealing" the glass, and is the final step. Once it has cooled, just open the kiln, pull out your stretched bottle, and use your pliers to remove the wire frame that was holding it up.

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