• Art Glass Resources, and some business information
  • Helpful hints and tips that we find online, in books and from our own personal experiences
  • Lots of great information for Stained Glass (Tiffany and Leaded), Lampworking, Fusing, Slumping, Glass Painting, Sandcarving, Mosaics and more
  • Lastly, HARRACH is pronounced, Hair - wreck

Sunday, December 29, 2013

I found this tutorial yesterday on Lampwork.etc and thought my readers would like to try it out!  It was posted by fionac. 


Mini Pot Melt 



Go to the hardware/gardening store, buy 5 (you only need one but you're gonna get hooked so may as well stock up) 7.5cm (3") tall terracotta pots for a buck each. Grab DH's favorite chisel and a hammer and chip away at the bottom holes so it's a about 5cm (2"). Grab 3 busted ass mandrels and twist them together to line the pot



Grab a handful of shorts in complemenatary colors (try to avoid reds and don't mix sulpher and copper base colors ie Ivory + turq = crap). I use 250g (8.8 oz) for a 12.5cm (5") tile, dump them in the pot



use fiber or KL board to cut a square dam and place onto kiln shelf or another bit of fiber board. Don't use BE paper. Place it in the kiln



Ramp Full to 900C, hold around 30 mins, Ramp Full to 540C, hold 1 hour, Ramp 140C to 400C. Kiln OFF, if you are patient, don't open 'til room temp, if not crank the door 1" at 150C and 2" at 65C to speed it up

Tuesday, December 10, 2013

Dichroic Extract video

Our brand new online retail artist supply shop, Harrach Supply Store, will be carrying Dichroic Extract by Coatings by Sandburg Inc., soon! We found this YouTube video on their webpage, made by Glasscraft which shows the extract being applied to a piece of sandblasted glass.  The extract has no specific COE which allows glass artists the ability to use it on all types of glass.  Click here to view the video.

Wednesday, December 4, 2013

Video showing how to use Glaskolben

This excellent video was made by hotglasschick and shows how she makes a glass ornament with Glaskolben.  


Wednesday, November 13, 2013

New fused glass (painting) stamping video by Slumpy's

We have tried to use stencils with glass paint a few times, but it has never quite worked.  So we were really excited to see this new video on YouTube, made by Slumpy's, showing how to do it correctly. We'll also let you know how our first project works out after trying this method.  And Slumpy's sells these supplies, too!


Supplies needed are:
Glass stamp
Brayer
Enamel
Glass stamping medium
Glass stamping lavender oil (applied with a dropper)
Palette knife (to mix the enamel, stamping medium and lavender oil)





Tuesday, November 12, 2013

More than 115,000 views on the Harrach Glass blog!

We are sending out a big thank you to all of the people that have viewed our blog since we originally created it in 2008.  Many thanks for supporting us!  We hope we have been of some help to our readers through the years.  We will continue to upload and share more helpful glass art tips, and other information for anyone to read and use.

Tuesday, November 5, 2013

How to make fused glass hearts, video

This is a great video for creating fused glass hearts!  Click here to view the video.  It was created by Chewysmum who has a bunch of nice videos on YouTube.

Monday, November 4, 2013

Shop at Harrach Glass TODAY!





       
Wine Bottle Candle Holder
ONLY $22.00 USD







Wine Bottle Wine Rack      
ONLY $25.00 USD



Thursday, October 31, 2013

Video showing how to make simple fused glass pendants with Dichroic glass

If you are new to fusing glass and want to see how to create some great yet very simple Dichroic Glass pendants or earrings, click on the link below.  The video was made by Chewysmum and found on YouTube.

Click here to view video: Fused Dichroic Glass Pendant Video

Wednesday, October 9, 2013

How to clean copper for enameling

A list of ways to clean copper for enameling.  

Rinse the piece of copper under your sink, any areas where the water is repelled or the water beads up, is not clean.

Use emery paper or a clean green kitchen scrub sponge to scrub the surface while holding the copper under your sink.

Do not use steel wool since some of the fibers may contaminate the enamel later and cause pitting.

Scrub the copper with pumice powder or a powdered detergent using a toothbrush, scrub pad or sponge.  The detergent must not contain a hand softener which will unfortunately put grease on the copper and contaminate it.  Rinse well under running water to clean.

You can use a pickle solution like sodium bisulphate or diluted sulphuric acid in a well ventilated area. Dilute approximately four parts water to one part acid.  Heat the copper surface with a torch or in a kiln so that the surface looks slightly green, then place in pickle solution for a few minutes until clean, and rinse under running water.

Copper can be dipped into a dilute solution of nitric acid, one part acid and six parts water.  Rinse the copper in baking soda and water then rinse in clean running water.  Do not do this with soldered pieces since nitric acid will weaken the solder joints.

Sprinkle table salt on copper, wet with vinegar and polish with a clean kitchen scrub pad.  Or soak copper in one part table salt to eight parts vinegar.

Use commercial copper cleaner.




Monday, September 23, 2013

Base metals for enameling

Copper - The most popular metal for enameling.  Melting Point 1981°

Fine silver - Easy to clean.  Melting Point 1762°

Sterling silver - Melting Point 1640°

24 Karat Gold - Expensive.  Melting Point 1945°

18 Karat Green Gold - Expensive.  Melting Point 1770°

Low Carbon Steel - Easy to use, and can come pre-coated.  Melting Point 2750°

Iron - Melting Point 2793°

Stainless Steel - Need to be used with high expansion enamels although it is possible to use low expansions enamels on 410 stainless steel.  Melting Point 2500°

Bronze - Can be difficult to enamel.  Melting Point 1945°

Brass - Melting Point 1749°

Nickel Silver - Melting Point 2020°

Gilders Metal - Most enamels that can be used on copper and silver will work on gilders metal.  Melting Point 1950°

Platinum - Expensive.  Melting Point 3225°

Aluminum - Use low temperature, high expansion enamels.  Melting Point 1220°

Titanium - Need to experiment with this metal, opaque enamels work best.  Melting Point 3272°

Wednesday, September 18, 2013

Kiln firing schedule for enameling

Most enamels applied to metals fuse between 1400 and 1500 degrees Fahrenheit.  Leave them in a digitally controlled glass kiln for two to five minutes, depending on the kiln.  If you are firing a transparent color onto copper, you will probably need to heat up your kiln hotter.  Testing and experimenting with your kiln will help you know what temperatures and times work best for your kiln.

Wednesday, August 28, 2013

Full fuse firing schedule for window or bottle glass

Ramp                                                   Hold Temp                               Hold Time
300/hr                                                   500                                            15 min
250                                                       1100                                          10 min
250                                                       1550                                           8 min
9999                                                     1030                                          20 min
50                                                          940                                            no hold
100                                                        740                                           off 



Monday, August 26, 2013

Kiln schedule for fire polishing hand-cut wine bottle drinking glasses



Ramp temp
                     to                          hold
240/hr                             500 degrees          10 minutes
240/hr                             1275 degrees         5 minutes
9999/hr                           1030 degrees        30 minutes
150/hr                             850 degrees           no hold
300/hr                             650                        off

Changing the 220 power cord on an Evenheat glass kiln.

Since we recently moved to a new studio location, we discovered that we have a different 220 plug than we had at our last studio.  That means that we'd either have to call in an electrician to replace the plug in our new work area, or replace the old cord to our kiln, with a new one that would fit.

We recommend calling an electrician.  This could become a fire hazard if improperly replaced, or damaged during replacement.  We will not take any responsibility for damage done by anyone reading this tutorial and working on their own kiln.  If someone is to hire an electrician to replace the power cord to their kiln, feel free to use our tutorial as reference; to insure that the electrician replaces your cord correctly.

First of all safety is important when working with electricity!  Make sure you buy a new power cord that can handle the amps and volts that your kiln uses.  We went to Home Depot and found a cord that would work for our kiln, right in the electrical department.  We took a picture of the new outlet so that we knew the plug configuration.  When you buy a new power cord, NEVER test out the "fit" by plugging in the power cord into the outlet unless the power is turned off to that outlet, first.
Shut off your kiln and unplug it before doing any work on it.

Our new outlet. We took this picture with us to Home Depot as reference.

You will need to remove the screws on the kiln sitter so that you can work.  I placed the kiln sitter on a paint can so that I wouldn't put too much stress on the wires that were still connected to the kiln.  The paint can just happened to be the perfect height.

Unscrew the strain relief on the outside of the kiln sitter.  Once you are done rewiring, replace the strain relief.  Always take a picture of the inside of your kiln sitter to use as a reference when replacing the wires.  Once done, you can begin removing the wires.  

Unscrew the thick black and white wires first, it will make it easier to get to the green wire.  

My kiln had three green wires on one screw that I had to remove since the ground wire to the new plug ended up being on the very bottom. 

Once everything is removed, carefully pull the old cord out of the side of the kiln sitter.  Then carefully feed the new power cord into the same spot.

The green wires are the ground wires.  To find the ground wire on the power cord, look at the plug on your new cord.  The prong that is by itself on the plug is the ground wire.  It is also the center wire.  So trace that center wire down to the end and mark it so that you do not mix it up when replacing.  

Then I replaced the wires that were where the black and white wires were, first.  It doesn't matter which wire you use as long as the center wire is put on the screw with the other two green wires. Screw the wires in securely.  Then replace the green ground wires making sure you replace the wires in the same order as you removed them.  

Replace the strain relief on the outside of the kiln once all wires are replaced and screw the kiln sitter back onto the kiln.  Once done, plug the cord into the socket and turn on your kiln's power.  




Wednesday, August 14, 2013

We've moved to Santa Fe, New Mexico!

Wow, it's taken quite a few weeks to set up the new glass studio after our approximately 2,000 mile move.  And we are still unpacking boxes!  At least the torch and Skutt kiln have been set up and working.  We survived the move with minimal breakage.  The hardest part of the move was transporting the sheet glass that was stored in our large wooden glass racks and all of the boxes of  our scrap glass, too.  The moving company wanted the glass racks and boxes repacked before they placed all of them in the moving van.  That was no easy feat since it was a last minute thing.

Anyway, we are close to being up and running full time again!  It's been a once in a life time experience, for the second time!  This is actually our second long distance move.  We hope our friends and occasional readers enjoy our blog and come back from time to time for the art glass information we have crammed into this blog.
  
The gate to our new studio.

The interior of the new studio.


Set up the torch and kiln and tested them out.

Started hanging stained glass windows and suncatchers from the ceiling.


Wallpapered the walls with posters and stained glass cartoons.




Tuesday, June 11, 2013

Pot melt project with flower pots

This is a FUN scrap glass pot melt idea that I saw posted on Lampworketc.com by 28676bhe.  

Go to Michael's and buy two of the small clay flowerpots - maybe 1 1/4 inches at the top. Ream out the hole in the bottom to make it a bit larger. Then stack them with the holes touching - one pot upside down on the kiln washed shelf, one pot upright.

Put some Bullseye glass in little pieces in the top pot - maybe just 2 colors and then one color of frit. Don't fill it up! A bit over half full is fine.

Take this up to 1600 DF and hold for 25 minutes, anneal @ 900 for 35 minutes.

You will have one fabulous circle pendant that is a swirl of the colors you chose!


Saturday, May 4, 2013

Freeze and fuse firing schedule


This gives glass fusers an idea of a kiln schedule to use when making freeze and fuse pieces.  In the past I have tried the freeze and fuse technique, but I wasn't happy with the final outcome and I thought it was because of my kiln schedule.  I hope this schedule works better.  Remember to anneal at the annealing temperature for the brand of glass frit that you are using!

200 dph to 400 hold 30 minutes 

400 dph to 1320 hold 35 minutes

9999 dph to 960 hold 1 hour (the hold time depends on the thickness. 960 is Bullseye’s annealing point, 
other brands will vary.)

200 dph to 700 0 hold (for thicker pieces I go 100 to 700)

500 dph to 200 and off (again, for thicker pieces I slow this down as well)

Thursday, May 2, 2013

Waxing, glass??? Yes, even glass gets waxed!


Waxing is a process used for a painted window. The cut glass is waxed onto a “light wall” in the same position as it was drawn on the cartoon. The glass is then painted with special stained glass paints. This process allows painting brush strokes to follow through the various pieces of glass and gives the artist a chance to view the window with light shining through it. Sometimes a portion of a window may also be waxed up to see how the colors blend and how the window will look in daylight

Sunday, April 14, 2013

Chart for filling Colour de Verre glass casting molds

If you use Colour de Verre molds and are unsure how much frit you will need to fill certain molds for glass casting, we found this very important chart on the Colour de Verre web page that has all of their information!  Click on the Colour de Verre link to buy their excellent molds and find out more information.  The weights are listed in grams.


Wednesday, March 27, 2013

Using brass frit when making lampwork beads, tutorial

We found this tutorial for using brass frit when making lampwork beads on the Lampworketc web page, written by Mustang Dawn. 


Brass Frit Tutorial




Supplies needed

• Brass Frit
• Marver with brass spread out on it. I use my razor tool to move the brass around.
• Opaque glass.
• Clear glass.
• Razor tool.

Caution: Be careful when using brass frit. It is sharp and can cause injury.
Use Brass Frit only under a ventilation system.

Note: I used very little brass frit in these beads. Place the brass frit on your marver before starting your bead. Spread it very thin on the marver with your razor tool.

1. Make a tube bead of opaque glass and marver it into the length you want to your final bead to be.

2. Heat the surface of the glass until glowing and roll it in the brass frit. Then, marver the frit into the base glass.

3. Next, keep the bead below the flame and encase it in clear covering all the brass frit. I like a heavy encasement of clear because it adds a lot of depth to the bead.Do not place frit directly into the flame. It will spark and burn off the bead. 

4. Heat the encased bead until glowing. You will see the gold bubbles form. Don’t heat your bead too long because it will bring bubbles to the surface of your bead. Once you start to see the bubbles form, pull the bead out of the flame. If you need more bubbles, reheat.

5. Finish decorating your bead and place it into the kiln.

Have fun and I would love to see what you create!

Thursday, March 21, 2013

How to do the thread, Favorite item from the shop above you, for THE Networking Team, Etsy

This screen shot tutorial will hopefully help our team members understand how to correctly post in the team thread, Favorite item from the shop above you.  

First of all click your mouse on that thread!  Once done, go to the last page in the thread, you will find the page numbers at the bottom of the thread's page.  Click your mouse on the highest numbered page, that page has the most recent posts.

Look at the last post in the thread, in the screen shot below I used KatrinSArt.  You will see that she posted an item from my own shop, HarrachGlass.  Now for your turn, you would click your mouse on KatrinSArt shop (NOT HarrachGlass) and you'd pick your favorite from her shop.  

In my screen shot, I picked the Moustasche Posts from Kateryna's shop.  At the top of that screen shop you will see that I highlighted with yellow, the http link for that specific item.  Once you have highlighted the http address for the specific item that you want to post, copy it...  Control C.  

Then by using your web browser, go back to the thread to where you want to post your favorite item, and click your mouse in the box next to your avatar, once done paste the http address by using your Control key and letter V.  

For the last step, don't forget to actually like that item that you just posted.  You will see a rectangle that has a heart in it which says Favorite, click your mouse on it.  Now you're done.  The next shop that comes along will pick their favorite item from your shop and post it the same way, and on and on.









The definition of THREADS, for THE Networking Team on Etsy, tutorial

Below shows a screen shot that I made showing what threads are and where to find ALL of them in the Etsy team called THE Networking Team.  

To begin with, on the team's main page you will see, towards the center of the screen, the word in bold type, Discussions.  I highlighted the word in yellow, below.  Click your mouse on that word (link) and you will then see multiple pages of more subjects which look like what I circled in red, below.  All of those subjects are links, and they are called threads.

You will see that we have many pages of threads in THE Networking Team.  You can find the page numbers by scrolling down to the very bottom of the threads page.  The higher the page number, the older the thread.  

When you click your mouse on an individual thread; the higher the page number, the more recent the post.  




Wednesday, March 20, 2013

Lampwork disk bead tutorial video

Click here to see a Corning Museum of Glass disk bead tutorial on YouTube by Kristina Logan.  If you make lampwork beads or wondered how they are made, this is an excellent video to watch.  Kristina spends quite a bit of time showing how she creates her very complex disk beads.  

Sunday, February 3, 2013

Fusing multiple cookie cutter shaped pieces

With cookie cutter molds the problem is you need
a lot of them to be productive.


A solution to that problem is to: 
- roll a slab of clay,
- cut several holes into it with cookie cutter
- bisque fire
-kiln wash


and use.

Sunday, January 27, 2013

Kiln fired frit painting, tutorial



We actually found this tutorial on the HGTV web page.  It just shows how popular glass fusing really is!  The completed piece is really pretty and looks fairly detailed.  They didn't give much of a fusing schedule but use a slumping schedule for the type of glass that you are using and it should work!  This also goes for window and bottle glass.  Remember that if you want to form a piece like this into something like a bowl or plate, do the frit fusing work first, then shape the glass.  It is easier to fuse frit when it is laying flat in a kiln.












Materials:

large sheets of glass
Magic Marker
powdered glass (frit)
sifter
gold leafing
glue
wooden backing
hooks for hanging
Steps:
1. Cut glass from larger piece to desired size.
2. Draw design on with marker. Reverse glass and trace over design. Turn glass over and wipe off first design.
3. With a tiny sifter and other tools, sprinkle the powdered glass (frit) into design areas like doing a paint-by-numbers painting.
4. Make a frame by cutting out red strips of glass from large sheet. Frame the edges of the large piece with the red strips.
5. Fuse in kiln at 1500 F degrees. This larger piece requires 24 hours for firing and cooling.
6. Glue gold leafing to back of glass and glue wooden backing. Place hooks on for hanging.

Wednesday, January 23, 2013

Video showing how to make a hollow bead using a Hot Head Torch

We ran across this YouTube video showing how to make a clear, soft glass hollow bead using a Hot Head torch, uploaded by Candyann22.  She makes it look extremely easy, but keep in mind, it's probably only after she's had a LOT of practice!  Click here to see the video.

Thursday, January 17, 2013

Creating fused glass art design elements with a craft punch, tutorial


This tutorial should give our glass fusing readers a bunch of other creative ideas so that's why we are sharing it with our readers today!  It can be found on the Bullseye web page along with a lot of other excellent information.  Follow the product links below to purchase the glass and supplies used in the project from Bullseye Glass.



Holiday Punch

quick_tip_holiday_punch_plate
Holiday punch plate, 8" x 13", slumped on Rectangular Slumper, Mold 8929.
The holidays are coming — break out the punch!
(The paper punch, that is.) Combine punched silver foil design elements with Tomato Red Opalescent for something truly festive.
Layup
Arrange silver foil (007217-FOIL) punches on Tomato Red (000024-0030-F). You can use GlasTac (008232-GLUE) to keep them in place. Cap with 3 mm Clear (001101-0030-F ) and invert the whole layup so that the clear sheet is against the shelf and the Tomato Red is the top layer – or arrange the foil on the Clear and cap with Tomato Red.
quick_tip_holiday_punch_samples
In addition to Tomato Red (left), try Red Opalescent (000124-0030-F) and Deep Red (000224-0030-F).
The pieces shown here were fired "design down," so the side facing the shelf in the fuse becomes the front of the piece. To achieve an effortless semi-matte finish, slump with the shelf-side up.
Hint: Sandwich silver foil between sheets of paper before punching out shapes (or cutting them with scissors). This creates a toothy structure that cuts cleanly and keeps the foil from tearing. Be sure to remove all traces of paper before firing.
Firing
We've had success firing this layup with an initial heat range of 200-400°F in the first segment of a full fuse.
Remember Reactivity
A dark reaction will develop around foil elements as a result of a silver-sulfur reaction with Red Opalescent. Reactions near the edge of the piece may "feather" because there's more airflow there. Some yellowing between Clear and silver may develop (this is called silver stain). Expect variation. It's part of the beauty of this combination.
Firing with silver foil between layers of glass usually contains the silver. To protect your kiln shelf from silver contamination, place the foil elements at least 3/4" from the outer edge of the project. If firing with silver on the perimeter, keep it within the footprint of the base without any overhang.

Friday, January 11, 2013

How to make a fused glass wine bottle house sign, tutorial


This excellent tutorial came from the Glass with a Past web page, by Jodi McRaney Rusho.  She has such a wonderful web page full of great fused glass tutorials and information plus she has an online store.  

Fused Recycled Bottle Glass House NumbersHere’s a fused bottle glass project that you may not have considered.  These house numbers are made with fused recycled bottles and Armstrong’s Float Fire frit.  This is a relatively easy project, grab a cup of coffee and follow along.
My friend Mary Young and her husband Todd belong to a wine club and asked me it I could make some very visible house numbers for them out of recycled wine bottles.  The final project turned out so well, I thought I’d share.
Step 1 – Select the bottles
Selection of different shaped bottles for fusingI only need 4 flat bottles for the final project, but I chose a varied selection of sizes and colors so I would have lots to choose from.
Step 2 – Fuse the bottles flat
Bottles before fusingBottles after fusing
Using my standard recycled glass fusing schedule, I flattened six different bottles.
Step 3 – Choose the best bottles
Fused Recycled Bottles for ProjectAfter the bottles are fused, I selected my favorite 4, making sure I varied the color, as well as the neck and shoulder shape.
Step 4 – Make your number stencils
Since it seemed unlikely that I would be able to find stencils in the exact size I needed I decided to make my own.  This was a one of a kind project, so I’m not really concerned with the durability of the stencils.  I found a nice rounded font and enlarged it until each number was about 6″ tall, one number per page.
Numbers for Stencils
Cut the number out carefully with a razor knife.
House number stencilStep 5 – Applying the embossing ink
This step is done using a scrapbook product called embossing ink.  It’s a sticky pink goo that is designed to grab embossing powder until you can heat set it.  I’m using it to adhere frit, it works great and it an excellent trick to keep on hand.  Since I’m covering a large area, I load up the stamp pad with ink and use the pad itself as the stamp.
Embossing ink and padApplying Embossing Ink to StencilBottle with Number Inked in
For numbers with floating centers (6 and 0 for example), use a tiny piece of rolled painters tape to hold the center in place while you apply the ink.
Step 6 – Add the Float Fire

Adding Armstrong Float Fire to BottleBottle with Float Fire numberFloat Fire is a variable COE product that can be used with window glass and bottle glass.  It is a little expensive, but it goes a long way, and if you are using it on glass that you’ve collected for free, it can be a great investment.
Step 7 – Repeat for all the other numbers.
Recycled Bottle House NumbersAfter all of your numbers are finished, re-fire the bottles using a slumping schedule.  Using a lower temperature will help keep the surface of the bottles glossy and the numbers slightly raised for great visibility.
Step 8 – Mount the bottles on the backing
For this project I used a piece of 1″ x 4″ pine painted black.  I used outdoor clear silicone to glue the bottles to the board.  The owner lives in a very windy area, so we made sure that enough of the board showed between the bottles that it could be securely anchored to the wall (visible in the first picture).  For less windy areas, I would attach two D ring hangers at the top of the board behind the first and last bottle.
Finished Recycled Bottle Glass House Numbers
Step 9 – Stick it on a house – preferably one that has the same house number
Pretty groovy!  This project could also be done with beer bottles for a smaller finished sign.

Wednesday, January 9, 2013

How to make a lampwork kid bead pendant, photo tutorial


This really fun tutorial was made by loribeads and posted on lampworketc.com.  Click here to check out her Etsy store.



Kidlet Tutorial


  
   


  
  

Tips for head: 
in Step 2 - Try cased or striped stringer for hair - it looks great!

Step 4 - Poke tilting upward in the corner of each mouth to create a cute, cheeky grin.

Step 6 - Poke downward with a tungsten pick and it will give the kidlet a nose, almost.

Step 7 - After adding black dots for eyes, slightly flatten with a tool

Tips for body:
Step 2 - alternately, you can squish it into a lentil shape or even a cube for more variety.

Step 4 - add one large dot for each hand and two smaller stacked dots for each foot

Step 5 - make sure everything is melted in sufficiently because there is nothing sadder than a kidlet with one foot missing. Trust me on this one. )

Congrats! You're done! You now have your very own kidlet! Wire them up on a headpin and you've got yourself a nifty little pendant!

Finished Kidlet:
 


Also Loribeads says: If you make them to sell, please be kind and let them know where you learned it! And don't forget to tip your waitress!

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